The largest of the islands and the hub for passenger boats to the off-islands. Only two and a half miles by one and three quarter miles, you could walk or cycle right round St Mary’s, enjoying the coastal paths and nature trails. The nine miles of roads mostly date back to medieval times, and if you cycle along them, you will scarcely see a motor vehicle.
A Perfect Escape
There’s something quietly transformative about arriving on St Mary’s, the largest of the Isles of Scilly. The mainland feels a world away almost immediately, replaced by turquoise water, soft Atlantic light, and a pace of life that seems to slow your thoughts as much as your footsteps. While the Scilly archipelago is made up of several islands, St Mary’s is the natural gateway and for many visitors, it becomes the heart of their stay.
Here’s how to make the most of your time on the island.
Wander from Hugh Town and Let Curiosity Lead
Most visitors arrive into Hugh Town, the small harbour hub where boats and transport from the airport gently deposit travellers into island life. It’s compact, but worth lingering in. Independent shops, galleries, and cafés line the streets, offering everything from handmade crafts to local seafood.
From here, it’s easy to set off on foot in almost any direction. One of the joys of St Mary’s is that nothing feels far away, yet every walk feels like an adventure.
Explore Peninnis Head: Wild Coastal Drama
Head south out of Hugh Town and you’ll quickly reach Peninnis Head, a rugged headland where granite cliffs meet open Atlantic swells. The walk is short but atmospheric, with seabirds wheeling overhead and gorse-scented paths winding toward the lighthouse.
On a breezy day, it’s one of the best places to feel the raw edge of Scilly’s natural beauty. Don’t forget to bring a camera.
Porthcressa and Old Town Bay: Easy Coastal Relaxation
If Peninnis is wild, then Porthcressa and Old Town Bay offer the gentler side of St Mary’s.
Porthcressa Beach sits just behind Hugh Town and is perfect for a spontaneous swim or an afternoon reading in the sun. A short walk away, Old Town Bay feels more secluded, with calm waters and views across to the Eastern Isles.
These beaches are ideal for slow days with no agenda, just tide watching and long pauses between swims.
Walk the Island Circuit
One of the best ways to understand St Mary’s is to walk its coastal path in sections, or if you’re feeling ambitious, complete the full island circuit.
Expect variety: sandy beaches, granite outcrops, farmland interiors, and sudden wide-open sea views. Highlights include:
– The views across to Tresco and the surrounding islands
– Quiet stretches where you might not see another person for a while
– Wildflowers in spring and early summer, transforming paths into soft colour corridors
It’s not a difficult walk, but it rewards unhurried exploration.
Rich in history
On St Mary’s you can find the site of the Bronze Age village of Halangy as well as the Old Town Church, perched right by the sea, where Sir Harold Wilson is buried in the historic graveyard, filled with wild flowers and surrounded by fascinating to read headstones of sailors from across the globe. To the East of Hugh Town, you will find ‘Harry’s Walls’, a unfinished fortification dating back to the 1540s and a brooding reminder of the turbulent history of the islands.
Day Trips to the Other Islands
St Mary’s is also the jumping-off point for island hopping. Regular boats connect you to smaller gems like Bryher, St Agnes, and St Martin’s.
Each island has its own personality:
– Bryher is rugged and windswept
– St Agnes feels remote and wild
– St Martin’s offers some of the clearest waters in the UK
Even a single day trip adds depth to a St Mary’s stay.
Swim, Paddle, Repeat
The waters around St Mary’s are among the clearest in Britain. On calm days, swimming feels almost tropical, especially in sheltered spots like Old Town Bay or Porthcressa.
If you’re feeling more adventurous, kayaking or paddleboarding around the coastline reveals hidden coves and perspectives you simply can’t get from land.
End the Day with a Harbour View
Evenings in Hugh Town are understated but memorable. As the day boats leave and the harbour quietens, there’s a gentle glow over the water that seems to stretch time a little. From the terrace at Tregarthen’s you can settle down and just watch the light change. That’s often the moment St Mary’s really settles in.
Final Thoughts
St Mary’s isn’t about ticking off attractions. It’s about drifting between them, letting the island set the rhythm. One moment you’re in a small harbour town, the next you’re on a clifftop with nothing but seabirds and sea for company.
